Here is a photo of a complete kit of parts for a UMT based Milestag gun. Apart from the 20mm barrel, all parts have been printed with RepRap. I'm quite pleased with the results. I'm able to manufacture parts that, once printed, can be assembled into a functional device within an hour or so. long live RepRap!
This kit, and its Milestag Core brother are now availabale at tagbits.co.uk
These parts come together to make this:
Sunday, 25 September 2011
I've recently completed a Mk4 version of my RepRap'ed Milestag lasertag gun. This version has a a serially driven 4 x 7 segment LED display to indicate health/ammo which I got from RoboSavvy. This is driven from my homemade Milestag UMT PCBs. These have turned out really well. The only issue that I had was the corrupted display I mentioned previously. Here is a Mk4 complete with DIY acrylic dome sensors:
Saturday, 17 September 2011
When I made my first Reprap'ed Milestag gun I designed a small PCB to allow the IR sensors to be connected to the gun housing with a curly RJ10 lead. I initially fastened this PCB to the baseball cap by fastening them with tie-wraps. Hardly satisfactory.
Monday, 12 September 2011
I've almost completed my Mk4 RepRap Milestag gun and I needed to make some sensor domes with mountings that allow me to fasten the sensors to a baseball cap. I started out by maing six more domes from acrylic sheet as detailed here. To do this I modified the dome mount I made some time ago. I needed to modify the dimensions slightly as my domes have an internal diameter slightly larger than the ones I got from Lasertagparts. Here are the two parts:
Wednesday, 7 September 2011
I've been doing further assembly on my Milestag UMT PCB. I bought a serially driven 7 segment display module from Sparkfun. This module is the one recommended for use with the Milestag UMT board. It is used to display clip rounds remaining and life. However, I could not get the display to function correctly. I sometimes (about 80% of the time) got a corrupted display. I resorted to removing the PIC MPU from the PCB and wiring it up on a breadboard with just the display and run from a stabilised PSU. I still got the same results: